'Lake
Como'
Wishbone-shaped
Lake Como, created with its twin Lake Lecco, is the most
romantic of all the Northern Italian Lakes. Close to Milan,
this region is very crowded in peak season, but in early
spring or fall it is equally magnificent.
The circular route
described below starts at Cernobbio in the south west close
to route A9 from Milan. You can drive around the lake in
5 hours but to truly benefit from the trip I suggest a minimum
of 2 days.
Cernobbio is a
pleasing lakeside village, every Wednesday there is a large
market in the center, this is also the starting point for
the 80 mile walking trail through the mountains.
Leave Cernobbio
on Route SS 340 to Tremezzo.
One of the most
attractive stretches of the whole route, the lakeside road
twists and turns through a series of tunnels, on one side
sheer rock and on the other, blue sparkling water.
Tremezzo is situated
almost midway up the lake, the setting is magical, the most
romantic spot on the lake. The town has its fair share of
'belle epoque' palaces, villas and gardens, none more so
than the famous Villa Carlotta, next to the Grand Hotel
Tremezzo Palace. The villa which is open daily, was built
by a Prussian Princess for her daughter, it is a pink neo-classical
building. It houses a fine 18th century collection of statues
and a frieze commissioned by Napoleon, which was not paid
for due to his exile. The glorious 14 acre garden rich with
azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons should not be missed.
Continue on Route
SS 340 past Cadenabbia to Menaggio.
In the center of
Menaggio take the right fork, the left goes to Switzerland
only 20 miles away. The scenery around the northern part
of the lake is less impressive and you might wish to miss
out most of the villages you pass. At the town of Dongo,
is where Mussolini was captured, whilst attempting to escape
in 1945.
Just after Sorico
turn right on the link road (2 miles) which will take you
to Route SS 37, the main road on the eastern side of the
lake. This is a busy road with long tunnels. Please keep
an eye out for the turning on your right to Bellano then
take the road to Varenna where you can catch a car ferry
to Bellagio. If you miss the turning you might have to drive
all the way to Lecco without being able to turn round.
Bellagio is perhaps
the most impressive of the lake resorts, with its splendid
settings and atmosphere. On a hill behind the town is the
17th century Villa Serbelloni with a magnificent garden.
The Villa Melzi is also open to visitors.
One of the best
ways to really appreciate the beauty and setting of Lake
Como is to take a trip on the lake, the boats run often,
zigzagging from one side to the other, giving you a breath
taking view of the mountains and villas which abound on
the hillsides.
From Bellagio my
suggestion is that you follow the mountain road to Como
along
SS 583. The scenery here is spectacular and as you climb
up to the 2,000 feet you pass the tiny church of the Madonna
del Ghisallo at Civenna, which is dedicated to cyclists.
The magic of the
town of Como is its setting at the head of the lake, with
the stucco villas rising from the water's edge with their
beautiful gardens.
Within the town the Duomo is reckoned to be the finest Gothic-Renaissance
architecture, it is also rich in paintings and tapestries.
Como is also the center for the silk industry and has a
museum dedicated to this subject.
Finally before leaving to take the cable railway up to Brunate,
here there are stunning views as well as many popular walking
trails.
Maximum miles driven depending on choice of route 170